Set off at 8:45am this morning down hill to the river. Crossed over the old medieval Ponte Sampaio, site of an ancient roman bridge. A battle was fought here in 1809 against the French (see the 1957 movie “The Pride and the Passion” staring Cary Grant, Frank Sinatra, and Sophia Loren, for a very romanticized version of the Spanish insurgency). Across the river we work our way northwards through tiny streets and alleys, climbing until we reach a wooded section. The Way is very well marked so there is little need to use our OS Maps app, apart from tracking. Also, today we are surrounded by pilgrims and walkers, a teeming throng, and there are few occasions when we are not passing or being passed by others. Also, there is a proliferation of small pop-up stalls selling either Camino trinkets or coffee, drinks and food. The Spanish entrepreneurial spirit is very much alive.
A word about food. Our package with Santiago Ways includes three meals a day; breakfast, picnic lunch and dinner. Breakfast normally consists of bread, croissants, butter, cheese, ham, yoghurt and cereals plus juice and coffee. Sometime eggs might be included. Its sufficient to get us moving in the morning. The lunch is as described (see earlier posts) and is at least consistent. Dinner normally includes three courses and is pretty simple; salad or some such to start, ham or fish with fries and ice cream or Santiago (almond) cake for dessert. Last night we were served river scallops for starters (see pic) which were great and the main course was hake (white fish) and vegetables or ham and fries. In Spain, pork or ham are very common and there are many different varieties and levels of quality.
After passing a lone man playing the bagpipes, we work our way up hill on a old stone path worn down by the wheels of wagon carts. This region of Galicia in Spain is the seventh Celtic Nation. Although the local Celtic language is now extinct, the culture is still present in the local art and music, perhaps that is the basis for the bagpipes? Once over the summit it is an easy walk through the lanes to the river. The Way splits here and we choose the meandering path alongside the water. So did hundreds of our friends. We lunch next to the river squatting on logs whilst Jeri submerges her feet to cool off. The water is fantastically clear and the fish are abundant. Our river walk is about three miles of good flat walking and we reach Pontevedra by 2:30pm where we head to a cafe next to the circular chapel of Virxe Peregrina for liquid refreshment.
Birds detected by Merlin; Long-tailed tit, Robin, Short-toed treecreeper.
Here is the map for June 3, 2025;
