the overview

Miles Walked
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Elevation
0
Drinks Consumed
0
Benches Sat On
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Churches Visited
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Jeri's Steps
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Nigran to Vigo

An early start today because this was a full day of walking; a planned 13.35 miles, though we suspect it might be more because the OS Maps app we are using tends to underestimate. We visit the bakery across the road to buy cakes and muffins (for an unbelievably cheap three euros for three pastries) and descend through Nigran along residential streets.

A word or two about signage and navigation; the most common Camino signs are spray painted yellow arrows appearing on walls or posts, followed by the more formal yellow on blue signs. Sometimes our route ran parallel with the green arrows of the Camino de los Faros ( the Lighthouse Way). The brass shells embedded into pathways are the least common and only seem to appear in towns. Of course we have to navigate to and from our accommodation, so it can be a while before we get back to the Way and see any signs at all. All four of us are getting better at spotting the signs now. We are navigating using a route from All Trails, but transferred to the OS Maps app so it can be broken into the 10 days we are walking from Baiona to Santiago.

We again reach the Atlantic, this time Praia de Patos, and the path extends down onto the sand in a few places. Of course descending to the beach implies a later ascent but this was made easier by a few spots outside people’s houses; one where food was left for walkers to take, another where we could stamp our Pilgrim passport and another where a handy bench allowed us to have our 11:00am potato chip stop.

Potato chip/crisp stop – bench provided by a kind neighbor

We climbed up through small villages via lanes and trackways. Unfortunately all the churches were closed today, thus no formal count, but we did have our picnic lunch under a tree in a churchyard sitting on a stone bench (Igrexa de San Miguel de Oia). Once again, we ate ham and cheese sandwiches. Along the way we often saw small vegetable plots where potatoes, corn and brassicas seemed to be most popular. Eventually we reached the forest and for about a mile enjoyed the cool shade of the eucalyptus trees and a waterfall. Once out of the woods, we descended to the outskirts of Vigo via some grassy shortcuts and passed the enormous Stellantis car assembly plant. This was set up by Citroen in the 1950s to avoid the then high pre-EU tariffs. Suddenly we were in the city and so stopped to enjoy afternoon sodas before the final push. The ‘push’ started off pleasantly with a walk through a municipal park and then a pleasant shaded trek next to the river. We swapped words with an older gentleman with a dog. Literally swapped, because not a lot was understood apart from the message that Vigo never gets cold. Then we were hit with a huge and unexpected hill coming into the center of Vigo, arriving at the Praza Espana roundabout, dominated by huge bronze horses. Descending down the Gran Via to our hotel, we noticed a glass roofed pathway down the center of the street with a moving walkway going up the hill. Final mileage, 15.06 miles and well won.

A lot of people walk the Camino. We know this because they all passed us today.

Praia de Patos
Tim meets a new friend

Here is the map for May 30, 2025;

7 Responses

    1. Thank Jan – today was less than 10 miles, so a bit easier on the feet. Blog post coming soon, but dinner first!

  1. Some lovely photos, pleased to see you are having good weather and a great time. Interesting thought about the scallop shell markings; the shell is the symbol of the camino because, in its lines radiating to a single point, it represents the many routes to the single pilgrimage point of Santiago.

    And, although you didnt say anything about the french stage of your holiday, you were staying in a part of the country where these lines start to funnel down from various faraway places towards the south west and the paths across the mountains to that sacred place on the north western tip of the Iberian peninsula. The brass scallops markings can be seen in the ancient paved streets of Perigueix, Limoges, Saint Yrieix and even Excideuil. The photo of the bridge at Nigran reminds me of the same one that crosses the Vienne at Limoges; in camino season it also has a cross in the middle. If you look up to the city from the middle of the bridge, you see the ancient narrow lane through old Limoges that runs from the cathedral where I suppose pilgrims would have been blessed before the start of their walk, heading south west through the hills and valleys of the limousin and perigord countryside.

    One might even imagine, centuries ago, a figure clothed in broad hat, cloak, carrying a leather pack with a scallop shell attached, leaning on a stick and making his way into a little hamlet to rest or seek sustenance. Maybe the pilgrim was given a traditional perigourdian meal of duck, beans and potatoes as we gave you that last Sunday of your stay.

    So although you travelled in the most modern way via jetplane to your start, your stay with us might just reflect the experiences of compostella pilgrims many centuries ago!

    Enjoy the walk, keep well all

    1. Thanks Patrick. Do you think the scallop shell symbol was used from the date of the earliest pilgrimages?

      1. The scallop has been around as a camino symbol from the very earliest times; and I guess there is also a link to fishermen and the apostles, hence Santiago. There are carvings in Excideuil church displaying embossed scallops. You are truly treading in the footsteps of the ghosts of pilgrims past…

        1. Pilgrims of the present were here today in large numbers – I’ve never seen so many walkers before.

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